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I wanted the shelves to overhang the cross members by about an inch. They also needed to fit between the Tees. I used the wood that I cut off of the desk top to make the top the final length, so the pieces were already glued together and I just needed to cut them to size. I sanded and finished the shelves the same as the desk top.
I centered the shelf between the legs with the desk in the upright position. Once I had the shelf where I wanted it, I clamped it into place and flipped the desk on its side. I installed conduit clips in each corner of the shelf, drilled a pilot hole and screwed the clips to the shelf.
I originally bought two different 3/4" conduit clips and the clips you see in the pictures below fit better on the pipe and seemed to really secure the shelf. I purchased the conduit clips (electrical department) and screws at HD.
I installed the bottom shelf the same way and the shelves were done. I now needed to install the USB outlet.
I installed the metal gang box and adjusted it so it was flush to the desk top. I realized I did not want the metal box seen from the front of the desk so I decided to add a piece of wood to the front of the metal gang box. The board can just slide into the bracket on the box that secures it to the desk top. The box also has tabs on the side that I could screw into the board so it will help secure the box, as well. I removed the metal box and tried a scrap piece of wood to determine how to make the board. The board was too big to fit into the bracket so I simply bent out the bracket a bit.
I used a piece of 2x4 and sanded it and rounded the corners, just like the desk top. I flattened the edge that would butt up to the bottom of the desk. I added pocket holes to secure it to the desk top. Here is a tip; I added the notch at the bottom of the board the second time I made it so it would fit over the bracket. Yes, second time. This is because the first board split when I tightened the screws to secure it to the desk top. I also added relief holes for the screws that hold the bracket. The board is very secure and hides the metal box well.
USB Outlet
I bought the all of the parts for the outlet from Lowe's, except for the USB outlet itself, which I bought from Amazon. Home Depot did not have the metal gang box. I wanted to use a strain relief (for a 1/2" hole) so I used the bottom knock-out in the metal box.
I cut off the female plug from the extension cord, stripped back the sheathing and added electrical tape because it was now loose and fraying. Make sure to put the strain relief nut on the electrical cord and screw the strain relief into the box before you push the cord into the box. Don't separate and strip the wires until after you push it into the box. It will be a lot tougher if you don't.
Separate and strip the wires, attach to the receptacle (including the ground), and secure the receptacle in the box. Once the receptacle is secured it really snugs everything up. Attach the face plate and tighten the strain relief nut.
After installing the outlet. I plugged it in and tested the polarity. I had the hot and neutral wires connected to the wrong terminals. I took it apart and reversed the wires. The wires in the extension cord are not colored so it is tough to tell which is hot, etc. I used a tester to check polarity. You can buy them for a few bucks. Here is a link to one at HD.
The two yellow lights, and no red lights, means the outlet is installed correctly.
The desk is now complete! My son will take it back to college with him and he will be using it for the next several years. A complete list of materials (BOM) and pricing can be found on the next page.